Santa Maria la Ribera
Off the beaten path but still central is Santa Maria la Ribera, one of the city’s first suburbs, built around the beginning of the 20th century. It has started to gentrify. Students and artists are here, and it is still very much rough around the edges, though quite safe to walk around by day! Many formerly grand family mansions still stand.
- Centerpiece is the Moorish Pavilion (Quiosco Morisco) in its central square.
- UNAM University Museum of Geology (Tue–Sun 10 AM – 5 PM · 30 pesos / ~1.60 USD), for the stairway and see if you can tip an attendant to see the stained glass murals upstairs
- UNAM University Museo del Chopo (Wed–Sun 11:30 AM – 6 PM · 30 pesos / ~1.60 USD), a small museum of contemporary art
Children dancing at the Moorish Pavilion (Kiosco Morisco)
Inside the dome of the Moorish Pavilion
An abandoned theater
The art nouveau hall of the Museum of Geology
Cast-iron stairway at the Museum of Geology
José María Velasco’s paintings of the evolution of life on Earth, in the Museum of Geology
Stained glass of the eruption of the Colima volcano, 24 March 1903, Museum of Geology
Biblioteca Vasconcelos
Eje 1 Norte (Mosqueta), next to Buenavista station – Metro Buenavista · daily 8:30 AM – 7:30 PM · free · website
Just east of Santa María is the “megalibrary”, Alberto Kalach’s 2006 cathedral of books. The steel shelves are stacked up to the ceiling and seem to float, and Gabriel Orozco’s whale skeleton, Mátrix Móvil, hangs in the middle of it all. There’s a botanical garden around it.
The hanging shelves of the Biblioteca Vasconcelos
Where to eat in Santa María la Ribera & San Rafael
Places recognized by outside guides are marked in brackets – see the key.
Restaurants
1Pink Rambo · Cedro 66, Santa María · Instagram · Michelin Bib Gourmand
Small plates from an open kitchen.
2Taquería El Califa de León · Ribera de San Cosme 56, San Rafael · Michelin selected
The famous gaonera steak tacos.
3Taquería El Paisa · Joaquín García Icazbalceta 36, San Rafael · Michelin selected
Suadero tacos.
4Vacaciones · Manuel María Contreras 35, San Rafael · Time Out
Casual trattoria with handmade pasta, wine and vermouth.