Further Afield in Mexico City
The sights outside the central neighborhoods, from the Basilica of Guadalupe to the pyramids and the monasteries of Morelos.
Villa de Guadalupe
Plaza de las Américas 1, Villa de Guadalupe – Metro La Villa · daily 6 AM – 9 PM · free · website
It’s worth checking out the “village” around the basilica dedicated to Mexico’s virgin. Not only is the basilica very cool 1970s architecture worth seeing outside and inside, but you can board a travelator which will whisk you by the main image to which people pray. There is a comprehensive Catholic gift shop inside the church. Also interesting are the original colonial church, and the Capilla del Cerrito chapel up on the hill, all set in a sort of park.
The modern Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe (1976)
The angel above the Villa de Guadalupe – as seen in the opening of Sense8
The old and new basilicas at sunset
Lucha libre
Arena México, Dr. Lavista 197, Colonia Doctores · Tue 7:30 PM, Fri 8:30 PM, Sun 5 PM · 80–500 pesos (~4–26 USD) · website
Masked wrestlers flying through the air, and a crowd screaming insults at the bad guys (rudos) and cheering the good guys (técnicos). Lucha libre is pure Mexico City theater and great fun even if you don’t care about wrestling. Shows at Arena México are on Tuesdays at 7:30 PM, Fridays at 8:30 PM (the big night) and Sundays at 5 PM; the smaller, older Arena Coliseo in the Centro has shows on Saturdays. Tickets are about 200 to 650 pesos (~11–35 USD) on Ticketmaster or at the box office. Skip the scalpers. Buy your mask from the stalls outside, where it’s cheaper.
Doctores is not a neighborhood to wander around at night, so take an Uber to the door and back.
Lucha libre café?
Mercado de Jamaica
Congreso de la Unión 286 – Metro Jamaica · open 24 hours · map
The city’s flower market, open 24 hours. Mountains of roses, lilies and tropical flowers, and wild arrangements made to order. Best in the last week of October, when it overflows with orange cempasúchil (marigolds) for Day of the Dead altars. Hungry? The food section is famous for its huaraches.
Teotihuacan
San Juan Teotihuacán, an hour northeast of the city · daily 8 AM – 5 PM · 210 pesos (~11 USD) · website
An unmissable day trip. The civilization that pre-dated the Aztecs. Walk the Avenue of the Dead between the Pyramids of the Sun and the Moon. About 1 hour north of town. Buses marked “Pirámides” leave every 20–30 minutes from Terminal Norte (Autobuses Teotihuacán, Sala 8) and also stop at Indios Verdes. Eat at La Gruta restaurant, built into a cave near one of the gates.
The Pyramid of the Sun and the Avenue of the Dead, Teotihuacan
Morelos 16th Century Monasteries
Eleven small towns in Morelos (plus a few in Puebla and Tlaxcala) make up a UNESCO World Heritage site, the 16th-century monasteries on the slopes of Popocatépetl. Some are still being restored, so expect scaffolding.
Tlayacapan
“Primitive” 16th-century church at Tlayacapan · map
Yecapixtla
Famous for its cecina, thin salted and sun-dried beef, best in tacos.
Murals at Yecapixtla
Where to eat: Far North
Places recognized by outside guides are marked in brackets – see the key.
Nicos · Av. Cuitláhuac 3102, Clavería · website · Michelin selected · Time Out · 50 Best #84
Family restaurant since 1957 for classic Mexican cooking; tableside sopa seca and moles. Worth the trip north.